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Pedro Lopes Notes

Boston, NYC, Washington DC Guide

Almost two years after visiting New York City, I’ve come back to NYC and its two neighbouring cities: Boston and Washington DC.

Again, I’ve asked several people about their perspective of these cities, which helped immensely when planning out my itinerary. Let’s pay it forward: here is my guide / personal perspective of Boston, Washington DC and (more) New York.

Moving between cities

Boston and Washington DC are roughly 4 hours away by bus or train.

I’ve made NYC my homebase, and opted to take the bus (FlixBus) between cities and they were very reliable and arrived always before the stated time. These cities are connected by non-stop highways which make the course more reliable and smooth.

Trains (Amtrak) are generally faster, but be aware that delays due to freight train interference are a known issue, and ticket prices are higher, when compared to bus.

Boston

Freedom trail

Boston was the epicenter of some of the most impactful American historical events, and the home of several historical figures, such as Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Hancock, to name a few.

The Freedom Trail (map) exposes you to this rich history, and connects 16 locations significant to the history of the United States via a 2.5-mile-long (4.0 km) path throughout Boston, which you can walk at your own leisure, and can be completed in single day.

The path is quite popular in the city, but if you are struggling to find it, look for the denser lines of tourists walking in the city. Likely they will be following the red brick lane that you just need to follow.

The Donkey and the Elephant

Ever wondered why a donkey is used to represent the Democratic party, and an elephant the Republican party?

It is thought the Republican elephant was first used like this by an Illinois newspaper during Abraham Lincoln’s 1860 election campaign - perhaps as a symbol of strength, although it is still debated.

It was then made popular after a man called Thomas Nast - who was a Republican - drew it in a cartoon in a magazine in 1874.

As for the origins of the Democratic donkey, they hark back to the presidential campaign of 1828, a re-match between Andrew Jackson and the incumbent John Quincy Adams. Opponents of Jackson labeled him a “jackass” for his populist beliefs and campaign slogan “let the people rule”. More entertained than provoked by the moniker, Jackson decided to incorporate the strong willed animal into his campaign posters and went on to defeat Adams, becoming America’s first Democratic President

Again, Thomas Nast later used the cartoon animal to represent the Democrats and it became a popular symbol for the party by the end of the 19th century.

MIT

For many years I’ve been yearning to visit MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) to better understand the energy and environment from where multiple outstanding breakthroughs and alumni came from.

The campus was built with “serendipity” as a principle, to encourage productive accidents which occur when people exchange ideas with no specific agenda but end up inspiring each other.

Most of the campus is open to the public, allowing for a very enjoyable exploration of its spaces.

Great Dome

This is one of the most distinguishable features of the entire campus, which is also a prized location for “hacks”, such as the placement of fire truck upon its top.

You can catch a glimpse of the internal part of the dome by going all the way up to the Barker Library reading room, which has a convenient elevator that you can take right from the main hall.

Kendal Band

The Kendall Station “T” subway station right next to MIT has a wonderful interactive sound sculpture which consists of three interactive instruments that are played using handles located on both the inbound and outbound subway platform walls.


Stata Center

You’ll immediately notice how daring and almost fantastic this building looks like. Academic celebrities such as Noam Chomsky, Ron Rivest, and World Wide Web Consortium founder Tim Berners-Lee have offices in the building, apart from multiple other facilities and departments.

West Campus

To the west, you can find Stratton Student Center; the Briggs Field which serves as the home field for the MIT softball program, in addition to the recreation field beyond the outfield fence that is used by over 80 club and intramural programs; and Simmons Hall (aka honeycomb) which serves as a student hall.

Harvard Bridge

One of the best ways to reach MIT via Harvard Bridge, where you can get appealing views of center Boston and MIT. The bridge is 364.4 smoots long. If you look at the ground, you’ll see how far you’ve progressed across the bridge, in this revolutionary measure.

Cambridge

Harvard University

You can reach Harvard University by simply doing a 30 minute walk from MIT. The proximity between these two powerhouses was something that struck me, and I didn’t realise until that point.

The main campus is open to the public, where you can check its magnificent buildings and surroundings.

Harvard Museum of Natural History

I’ve lost count of the amount of dinosaur fossils and attractive rocks, crystals and gemstones. Make sure to allocate a few hours to appreciate a good part of the collection.

Sanders Theatre

As I was making my way toward the Harvard Museum of Natural History, I stumbled upon an imponent building and wondered what it was. Once I entered through one of the open doors, I was in awe. I had entered the Memorial Hall, in which a concert at the Sanders Theatre was about to start. The inside of the building was stunning and reminded me of the Great Hall in Harry Potter.

TheFacebook birthplace

Room H33 in Kirkland House at Harvard University was where Mark Zuckerberg developed “TheFacebook” (now Facebook) in 2004 before dropping out to focus on the burgeoning platform. For obvious reasons, you cannot visit the room itself, but it was still interesting to visit this location and understand its environment.

Other notable places

Cheers - The Bull & Finch Pub

The Bull & Finch Pub was the model for Cheers, a wildly popular American television sitcom. When the show was being conceptualized, Tom Kershaw, the pub’s owner, agreed to allow the show’s production team to shoot exterior and interior photos, charging $1. Kershaw has since gone on to make millions of dollars, licensing the pub’s image and selling a variety of Cheers memorabilia.

One of the Liberty Trail paths will take you to the Navy Yard, where there is more to discover other than the USS Constitution and its museum. It offers a beautiful view of Boston, is the home of the Massachusetts Korean War Veterans Memorial and familiar animal statues like the ones you can see outside the World Trade Center.

Italian Corner

The italian corner in Boston, not only houses a wealth of quality restaurants and pastry shops, but also the angelic St. Leonard’s Church, one of the oldest churches built by Italian immigrants in the United States.

The New England Holocaust Memorial

The memorial is composed of six glass towers towering well over 50-feet on a black granite path in a grassy area. The towers symbolize the six major concentration camps, steam often rises from openings beneath the towers representing the smoke from crematoriums.

RH Boston

This luxury home furnishings store is housed in the previous historic museum of natural history, and is striking to observe at night. I just happened to stumble upon it while I was walking around and it was already closed by that time, but this would be one of my go to places to visit if I come back to Boston.

Food

There are two things one must try in Boston:

  • Anything seafood related: Boston sits right next to the shore and receives a steady supply of fresh sea produce. I suggest getting:
    • New England Clam Chowder: almost any place at Quincy Market is amazing. Be sure to have it in a bread bowl.
    • Lobster Roll: grab one at James Hook & Co, they are well worth it.
  • Cannolis at Mike’s Pastry or Modern Pastry:
    • From these, I recommend Mike’s Pastry, which has its main location in Boston, but there is also another one in Cambridge. Expect long queues in the Boston location at any time. I’ve tried both of the locations, and quality is essentially the same. Don’t overdo it though, each cannoli is massive.

While in Cambridge, be sure to also go to Joe’s Pizza. Same delicious slices as you would have in New York, with less hassle.

Community spirit

If I had to summarise Boston to a single word, it would be “community”.

While going through Walter Isaacson’s Benjamin Franklin: An American Life, it became apparent to me how fundamental was for Franklin to be involved in Boston’s community, not only for what he received, but also for what he gifted. His birthplace was on the same street of the Old South Meeting House, so no way could have escaped.

Notice also how many meeting houses, state houses, halls, religious congregations and halls exist in the Freedom Trail alone. This, paired with the many past confrontations with Great Britain, seemed to create a tight group of people that strived and leaned on each other.

With this, comes the service to the community and its legacy, which is nicely rendered in this phrase from Kevin Hagan White, previous mayor of Boston:

We can erect thousands of building thousands of buildings and put down miles of concrete, but unless the next generation can say that Boston is better place to live, we will have achieved nothing

New York City

I’ve covered the majority of my favorite NYC places in this post, but here is always something more to explore.

MoMA

I recommend starting on the upper floor and then work your way down. It dawned on me closer to the museum’s closing time that the top floors had much well known art pieces than I imagined, so I ended up rushing through many of them. The upside was that I spent more time absorbing other less known pieces, which I found inspirational and fresh.

Being Human

The piece that most struck me was “Being Human”, not so much for its content, but for its form. The piece is set up in a room which has a large semi transparent panel where a movie is being projected. As I was sitting on one side of the room to see the movie, at key parts of the movie the entire back room lights up, revealing the sculptures and paintings. That was unexpectedly surprising as I sat there not only to watch the movie, but to rest from the 100km+ I’ve accumulated up until that point1.

The main thing I found inspiring about that piece was how it was filmed. It wasn’t an “in your face” headshot, it wasn’t a typical documentary interview, but instead the main protagonist was talking about fundamental ideas as he walked, shaved, talked with his family over the phone, while travelling in a bus, or just dancing. That was so refreshing, especially when I mostly consume (and produce) YouTube content, where the format is a very “like, subscribe, thumbs up” kind of thing. This inspired me to look at the small videos I produce in a different way, and ever since I’ve been experimenting with some new shots and ways to convey my message. In the end, it is a labor of love, and I think there is value in adding beauty to the world.

Ruth Asawa: A Retrospective

I took some time to go through this exhibition, where I’ve mostly enjoyed the explorations around the negative space and the abstract mimicking of natural structures. This temporary exhibit will be available until February 7th, so you are still on time to check it out.

Governors Island

Instead of getting into an expensive, overcrowded tour of the Statue of Liberty, walk a few meters east from that ferry at Battery Park, and get a $5 ferryboat trip to Governors Island instead. The trip is beautiful, the island can be walked easily and has some interesting houses, and you’ll actually get a good view of the Statue of Liberty from there.



Lincoln Opera House

Remember to activate subtitles by pressing the button in front of you. I didn’t realize this on the first part, so needed my colleagues from another aisle to explain me what is was all about, for me to catch up

Exchange Place

This is where you can get one of the best views, if not the best land level view of New York. Then get a ferry ride back to Manhattan for extra premium views (this part I did not do, since I was running out of time, but I was advised by a local that it’s a must).

Summit Vanderbilt

I didn’t try any formal observation decks the last time I visited New York, so this time I had to do one. I’ve picked Summit Vanderbilt, which is a pretty good experience, not only because of impressive views of iconic NYC landmarks, but also due to the different indoor experiences and mesmerizing light effects it offers.

Other notes

The best Tiramisu in town

I got this hint from a colleague, and it is spot on. If you are looking for the best Tiramisu in NYC, look no more, just head to Piccola Cucina, where they serve you a freshly made Tiramisu that is assembled right in front of you, and it is delicious.

Salt Bae Steak Restaurant

Right in front of MoMA sits the Nusr-Et Steakhouse, owned by exuberant Nusret Gökçe, the Salt Bae.

Giant Louis Vuitton bag

Fashion brand Louis Vuitton has concealed its under-renovation New York flagship store with a luggage facade, and it looks surreal. When I first glanced at it, it felt like it was placed there via augmented reality.

Washington DC

I visited on a curious time: the government was shut down, so all main museums were closed, and a “No Kings” rally was held on the same day I arrived, so some of the main attractions were fenced and there was a heightened police and secret agent presence. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed my time there, and if anything, would want to go back to visit all the incredible museums I missed.

Capitol

As you exit Union Station, Washington DC’s main station, the first view that hits you is the Capitol, the seat of the United States Congress, the legislative branch of the federal government. While walking around DC’s main attractions along the National Mall, the Capitol is a permanent sight.

Jefferson Memorial

Make sure to not miss this emblematic memorial, which is not only incredibly beautiful inside, with the towering statue of Thomas Jefferson and his quotes, but also outside, as you walk towards it along the Tidal Basin.

The quote I most appreciated was:

I am not an advocate for frequent changes in laws and constitutions, but laws and institutions must go hand in hand with the progress of the human mind. As that becomes more developed, more enlightened, as new discoveries are made, new truths discovered and manners and opinions change, with the change of circumstances, institutions must advance also to keep pace with the times. We might as well require a man to wear still the coat which fitted him when a boy as civilized society to remain ever under the regimen of their barbarous ancestors.

Lincoln Memorial

This was one of my most long awaited memorials, and has been in imaginary for several decades, but apparently I was not the only one, because this was one of the most crowded attractions. Adding to that, to accommodate visitors during the upcoming elevator replacement, contractors built a very large temporary switchback ramp in front of the memorial’s plaza, so it felt like entering into a monument under construction. This is an attraction that I hope to come back to sometime later when this work is completed, to better savour it.

White House

As it is expected, you can only have a limited view of the official residence and workplace of the president of the United States (currently, Donald Trump), but after seeing, hearing and reading about it countless times, it felt great to see it with my own eyes.

National Mall

The National Mall is a landscaped park that sits right at the center of all main attractions in DC, a charming place to walk about. Along the way I’ve encountered several branches of folks on their way to join the “No Kings” manifestation.

Martin Luther King Memorial

This was the memorial that most struck me in terms of symbolism. It was smartly built.

Notice that on the side of Mr. King’s statue there is an inscription that reads “Out of the mountain of despair, a stone of hope”. Then notice that behind the statue there is a rock formation from where the statue’s “stone” was clearly symbolically extracted from. Beautiful.

FDR Memorial

The large memorial for Franklin Delano Roosevelt has four outdoor “rooms”, representing his four terms, all of them sprinkled with many of his insightful quotes.

World War II Memorial

The most striking portion of this memorial were the bas-reliefs consisting of 24 separate panels. The 12 on the north depict the Atlantic front; the 12 on the south depict the Pacific front. All of them are neatly connected, telling a story that is worth diving into.

Arlington Cemetery

The most striking aspect of this military cemetery is how large, exquisit and well kept it is.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

This is a monument in the middle of the Arlington Cemetery dedicated to unidentified U.S. service members from World War I, World War II, and the Korean War.

After the periodic change of guard that me and the small crowd were watching in total silence, the chatter in this small crowd started growing after the ceremony had ended. With this, the guard in duty shouts assertively to the crowd to respect this space and maintain silence. The crowd quieted down immediately. That moment reflected what the entire cemetery transpired: an immense respect and dignification of the ones that served that country and gave their lives during their service.

Marine Corps Memorial

Again, another emblematic memorial, which is not as easy to reach as DC’s main attractions, but worth the visit.

Georgetown

In the northwest quadrant of DC sits Georgetown, a beautiful area that feels like a transplantation of a piece of Europe into DC. In fact, it predates D.C. itself.

Georgetown University

Keeping up with the theme of visiting university campus, this one was also interesting to visit, with building buildings and hidden places like a nice terrace near a coffee shop, a good place to relax after a long walk.

I’ve noticed several “Hoya Saxa” references. In case you are wondering, it is generally translated as “what rocks!”, and is the official cheer and “college yell” of Georgetown University and its athletics teams.

The Exorcist Steps

You might have noticed the header image of this article is again me on a flight of stairs. What’s up with that?

I thought it would be fun to keep up with the theme of emblematic staircases, last time being the “Joker steps” in the Bronx, so this time I’ve visited the stairs where Father Damien Karras fell down in 1973’s film The Exorcist.


Waterfront

Beautiful, relaxing space to relax and appreciate the view of the Potomac river.

Kennedy Center

The concert started with the orchestra playing the USA’s National anthem, Star-Spangled Banner. All rose to hear it, and the spectacle moved me. This was one of the last days I was spending in the USA, and after experiencing so much from this culture that highly fascinates me, this was a cathartic moment. I came to know right after this that some deeper political motives were behind this recent inclusion of the anthem pre-concert, but still I found it moving how much its citizens esteem their nation.

The concert itself was “An Evening of Beethoven”. It was the best classical music concert I’ve even seen, and I’m not saying this to sound highbrowed or anything. It was genuinely incredible.

There had been a sudden replacement of the original conductor, Christoph Eschenbach, due to illness, by the young Emmanuel Tjeknavorian, who was completely on fire, and propagated that energy towards into the orquestra and the audience. The sheer energy and emotion that the conductor transpired was incredible. Never experienced anything like that in such a context. If you are around the area and can catch the show, you should.

Watergate Hotel

Remember the Watergate scandal, a political scandal in the United States involving the administration of President Richard Nixon? Well, the complex where a group associated with Nixon’s 1972 re-election campaign were caught burglarizing and planting listening devices in the Democratic National Committee headquarters, is just a stone’s throw away from the Kennedy Center.

Other notes

Community spirit and legacy

If I had to summarise Washington DC in a single word, it would be “legacy”.

Incredible achievements of the past won’t guarantee a prosperous future, and it is up for current and next generations to keep nurturing the gifts from ancestors, by continuing their work, remembering their deeds and honoring good ideals.

The “test of time” many times comes down to a generation’s choice to keep past stories and memories alive, or not. The meticulously preserved Arlignton cemetery, the zero tolerance for noise and chatter at the “Tomb of the Unknown Soldier”, the fact that a Freedom Trail actually exists, the tiny USA flags that “someone” tend to on Boston’s cemeteries, the free monuments and museums available for all, the highlighted “freedom is not free” message at the Korean War Veterans Memorial. All of these send a strong message that the past glories are dependent on their maintenance and elevation.

The gifts

There was also space for gifts offered by other nation states, and the ones that stuck most to me were:

  • the Japanese Lantern located next to the Tidal Basin, among the cherry trees first planted in 1912, which lighted during the annual National Cherry Blossom Festival.
  • and the large Netherlands Carillon. Throughout the day, the carillon automatically plays the Westminster Quarters. On significant days of the year in Dutch and American culture, it plays automated concerts, and from June to August, the director-carillonist Edward Nassor hosts a concert series whereby visiting carillonists perform weekly concerts on the instrument.

Extra notes

The people

Along the way I’ve met and had interesting conversations with some very generous and interesting people, be it in the queue to Mike’s Pastry, at Joe’s Pizza, in the airplane, at Kennedy Center. They were incredibly friendly and I’m thankful that we crossed paths.

It’s my birthday: Stop and Wave

Someone got a lot of attention at Harvard’s Department of Stem Cell and Regenerative Biology :)

Halloween

It was near Halloween at the time of these travels, so I got to observe some of the fantastic work of local residents.

Wait

When I arrived in Boston, the first thing I needed to do was to cross a sidewalk. I pressed the button to request the cross, and heard the emblematic “Wait!”. I thought that was pretty amusing. I feel like this could make a great sample to insert in a trance music.

Fun fact, these are notoriously hackable, and last year the audio on these crosswalks were changed to mimic Elon Musk and Mark Zuckerberg.


Legacy

The most common themes stuck to me were legacy and lore.

A great example of this is Washington DC. At its core, I see it as a condensation of the story and values of the USA. What it means to be an American. There is real power behind the culture and soft influence that the USA transmits externally and inland.2

Even if a nation sports an incredibly past, it will only survive if every new generation maintains that legacy and iterates upon it, as Kevin Hagan White alluded to. The tiny American flags placed in the historical Boston cemeteries, the exemplary maintenance of the Arlington cemetery, Boston’s freedom trail, Boston’s Bunk Hill that was erected with the money from the community, the free DC museums, the USA cultural exports, and so on and so forth. All of these keep the American story and lore alive.

  1. Over the span of 9 days, I walked a total of 188km (20km + 42km + 4km + 11km + 9km + 5km + 38km + 36km + 23km), where parts of these I was transporting a 10kg backpack. It was quite a workout

  2. Although there are signs that the USA might be starting to lose its cultural influence with the accumulation of serious problems, ideology clashes and hostility towards allied countries.